Spencers Motors inc. - Recently Updated Pages

Sports Cars

Spudz — Mon, 01 Sep 2008 11:46:39 CDT

I got the idea of this car by thinking of a 2 seat go kart but I just kept designing and designing until I started to realise It had turned into a sports car. Its a very fast sports car with very well thought out aerodynamics. It has a 4.3L V8 engine with 400HP, 0-60 in 4 seconds. The speedometer is easy to read. It has a built in satnav, air conditioning, power steering, 2 seats (real leather), an ipod player, electric windows.

The one is a small sports car with a V6 4.2 L engine 200HP. It has very good power steering, 2 leather seats, 2 doors, a spacious boot, no roof, ipod player, an automatic or manual gearbox. (Smisondax micro)

This is a very small but fast, one seated car (The only 1 seated car ever to be road legal). It has a unique aerodynamic body. The seat is on a tilt so the ride is comfortable and so the whole vehicle is lower so it will slice the air better and become faster, reduce drag and make more room in the back for baggage.

Products

Spudz — Mon, 01 Sep 2008 06:56:39 CDT

Smisondax Grande Designs	Smisondax comfort Designs	Smisondax micro Designs
3 PC games praetorians stuart little and 555 minigames	Smisondax roomy Designs	Smisondax lightning Designs
Xbox with 2 controllers and 3 games	Rayman 3, Lord of the Rings 3, the incredibles on Gameboy advance SP	classical guitar

Reviews

Spudz — Mon, 01 Sep 2008 06:48:42 CDT

The first review is of a small speedy RC vespa. Its very fun and fast but the turning takes some time. But when you have mastered the turning then its a fun action packed little toy. Nice design aswell and good detail on the rider. Overall a very good RC gadget. If your interrested in this item then visit
www.bushiauto.com/acatalog/Radio_Controlled_Mod_Vespa_Moped.html

Home page

Spudz — Mon, 01 Sep 2008 06:48:10 CDT

This Is a website designed for petrol heads interested in some new, fresh, wacky, extremely fast vehicle designs !

This is a website for my company to show their ideas like car designs, motorbike designs etc...

If you have any designs or ideas then contact us and we'll put your designs on the website. More designs are being made every day so the website will be updated and changed every now and then. The pictures you will see are the rough designs the neat ones will be uploaded shortly.We also have a go kart and minimoto club. The club is very good with a very nice track. We test all our models on the track before selling the actual vehicles themselves. Most designs are fast cars designed for maximum speed combined with super agility to form a master piece waiting to hit the road.Visit all our pages to see our modern designs of cars, jet skies, motorbikes, minimotos, go karts, quads and boats. You will be amazed and dazzled when you see the amazing aero dynamics and super speed of our designs. If you are interested in the designs then contact us or better yet buy the designs for yourself on our products page on the left hand side. We do also have the occasional R/C models being designed and sold, petrol and electric motors.

Spencers motors is proudly sponsored by Captain Packaging www.captain.co.uk

Sports cars / Motorbikes and Go karts

Family cars

Spudz — Mon, 01 Sep 2008 06:38:44 CDT

The first family car is a big car with a spacious boot which can also be converted into an extra two seats, two sunroofs, satnav, cruise control, storage on top (optional), 7 seats, electric doors in the back and boot (opened by remote), electric windows, ipod player, 2 TV's on the back of the headrests in the front so the children or other passengers in the back can watch DVD's. It has a 250 HP 2.5 L engine. (Smisondax Grande)

The second is a luxury family sedan. It has 4 luxury real leather seats, a satnav, electric windows, big boot, air-con, cruise control, 1 TV in the back, an ipod player and a surround sound speaker system. A V6 4 L engine a 200 HP. You can fold down the roof as well.(Smisondax comfort)

The third is a van. Quite small, 3 seats in the front, 2.5 m by 2 m boot, a V6 225 HP engine. Built in satnav, ipod player and air-con. (Smisondax roomy)

This next one is the fastest one of the lot. Extremely luxurious and very fast.

Motorbikes/Go Karts

Spudz — Mon, 01 Sep 2008 06:36:12 CDT

| Our Videos

We have allot of go kart and motorbike designs so only the best are put on this page. As we have a go karting and minimoto club and race track we are very passionate about these two vehicles. The best designs are built and tested on our track, if we fell they are very good, smooth running, fun vehicles then we will use them in the club.

The first go kart design has a 170Cc engine at the back of the kart and a unique aerodynamics design for the carbon fibre body.

Our first motorbike is based on the Suzuki Hayabusa. They are similar in some ways but in others extremely different. It has a fast 4 stroke engine with 995 Cc.

The Club

Spudz — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 04:33:39 CDT

The Spencers Motors inc. club is basicly a go karting and mini moto club. ts called 'Smisondax Karting Club'. It Is also where we test all the designs the company comes up with. It has a fairly big outdoor track, a pub, stands and a drivers lounge with a changing room. We host tornaments and other competitions, we are trying to organise a league with other clubs in the area.

The track will have 2 different versions, long and short. The main building will have a bar/pub/restaurant, a changing room just for drivers, a lounge where the V.I.P's and other people will watch the races in luxury first class acomodations, a kart storage area/construction area where we build the vehicle designs we come up with, a podium for the winners of races/tornaments etc... , a commentary box, two offices for the two owners myself and my colleigue, a ticket stand and a large parking area.

Membership

You can come and do some laps or become a member. When you become a member we will supply you with a go kart or minimoto (your choice) and a helmet but only when necessary and only for 2 months then you must buy a go kart and/or minimoto and helmet. We will give every member a membership card and a driver suit with the smisondax logo on it and our sponser Captain Packaging Ltd.

'' S.K.S '' Smisondax Karting Series. This league will be a go karting league but with the clubs drivers only and any other driver with a kart but if you aren't a member then It'll cost £20.
'' S.M.S '' Smisondax Minimoto Series. This will be a minimoto racing league but with only our riders. This will be the only minimoto league because their are no other minimoto clubs in the area to form a league with. If your not a member then it'll cost £20
The last league is a go karting league. We havn't finished organising it yet and it has no name but be patient.

These leagues will last all year !!!!!!

Prices

Membership in either go karting and/or minimoto: £10 a month
When you are a member you can come when ever we are open for a spin + you will be able to entre any compititions we host free of charge + access to the lounge when ever you want.

vehicle	price	time	size
go kart	£6	15 min.	Infant
go kart	£8	15 min.	Medium
go kart	£10	15 min.	Super
go kart	£14	15 min.	Super +
minimoto	£8	15 min.	Normal

Go kart plans

Spudz — Tue, 12 Aug 2008 13:31:26 CDT

www.kartbuilding.net

Breakdown of the Complete Set of Racing Kart Plans

There is a seperate 1 page PDF for each area of the Racing Kart. They are arranged from 1 to 20, in the order you would begin to make the kart, i.e.: No. 20 is the last stage of making the Racing Kart.
These step by step drawings shows the assemblies, sub assemblies and details of over 40 components. Details for each drawing and step will be outlined below, with information on changing parts and components to suit your budget. 1. - Complete Assembly of the Racing Kart

This Drawing (click on link above) shows the Overview, Layout and Dimensions/Size of the Racing Kart. You will also be able to see the various pieces involved in making up the racing kart - from the seat, to the wheels, to the axles etc. The main dimensions of the Racing Kart are: Length 1.6meters x Width 1.2meters, and will cater for the average-sized driver. The placement of the seat, the engine, the steering wheel and the pedals can be seen. Note that the placement of the engine and seat is up to yourself and does not matter much. The main reason the engine is on the right of the driver is because on motorbike engines, the gear-change is generally on the left of the engine. Thus with the engine on the right, only a short gear lever is required which provides positive gear change. The steering column & wheel and Pedals can easily be angled to one side so that they are within easy reach of the driver. There are several other features such as roll-bars/cage, emergency kill switch, chain guards, suspension etc. which can easily be implemented into this design.

2. - Labelled Overview of the Racing Kart

The Labelled Overview of the Racing Kart helps beginners identify key parts of a kart, the names of which can sound complicated at first. Key parts to identify are "King Pins", "Steering Column", "Track Rods", "Front Stub Axle", "Support Bushings", "Brakes" etc. Each of the individual parts and components within this drawing #2 will be discussed and detailed further in drawings #3 to #20 below.

3. - Chassis

The chassis is the most important piece/section in the entire kart. All other parts and components can be changed at a later date. As a result - a good deal of time must be spent planning, drawing out, cutting, and welding the chassis together. The dimensions given are suitable for an average sized driver. You can test and confirm these sizes easily, by placing the components (wheels, engine and seat) to the layout in this Drawing. Place yourself in the seat, and make sure there is enough room for the seat, pedals, steering wheel etc. The front raised bumper and the "King Pin Mounting" should be left until last. The chassis is made from 25mm outside diameter tubing with a wall thickness of 3mm for ease of welding via a MIG or MMA/Stick Welder.
It would be advisable to draw out the chassis on the ground using chalk, and cut the lengths of tubing based on this. The lengths of tubing can then easily be tacked in place with weld. Measure the chassis to make sure it is square, true and not twisted. Concrete blocks can be used while welding to secure the tubing flat to the ground. If you have access to a Pipe Bender - it would be advisable to bend the right and left front sides from one length of tubing. The reason the chassis is narrow in the front middle - is to allow the chassis to twist (a little bit) when going around corners. The chassis must be able to twist, otherwise the kart will not steer around corners correctly, and instead move in straight lines only. The Camber angle produces the small twist/flex in the chassis when cornering. You will notice the Camber angle on a Car when the steering wheel is fully locked to the right or left. The Front wheels of the car will be angled at 85degrees to the ground providing better traction, and better cornering. before been fully welded together. The Castor angle helps keep the front wheels pointing forwards, and as a result, if the steering wheel is let go - the kart should go in a straight line.
The "King Pin Mounting" piece is shown in its simplest form with NO bushing been used. It is simply a piece of 25mm diameter metal bar, 65mm long, with a diameter 13mm hole in the center (13mm is the diameter of the King Pin Bolt been used to attach the Front Stub Axles). A special brass insert can be fashioned and used also. Make sure also that there are NO holes drilled or as a result of welding, in the main members of the chassis as this will weaken it greatly. Grind all welds using a file or angle-grinder making sure they are sound.
It would be a good idea at this stage to apply a primer and coat of Hammerite metal paint to the chassis.

4. - Front Stub Axles and King Pins

The Front Stub Axle and King Pin is one complete piece, however there is a Left and Right hand piece - so they are NOT identical. Only the Left hand Front Stub Axle and King Pin is outlined in the above drawing. With some common sense, a Rigth hand part can easily be fashioned. The "n" piece of the King Pin is made up by welding 3 pieces of flat steel to form a "n" shape. The steering arm is then welded to the King Pin (n shaped piece). Note this steering arm can be welded to the top of the King Pin to provide for greater room. In the plans above it was placed at the bottom, putting the track rods under the chassis and thus does not interfere with the Drivers feet etc. The angle of 110 degrees is a calculation from the Ackermann principle which is further discussed on this website here and here. The stub axle piece itself is welded onto the side of the King Pin. If you dont have access to a Metalwork Lathe to produce the piece as in the above Drawing, it can be made simpler by, obtaining a diameter 20mm metal bar, 125mm long. Obtain a 13mm Bolt, and cut the head off it. Then weld the 13mm bolt to the end of the 125mm long metal bar. Finally to prevent the front wheel from moving in on the Stub axle, obtain a piece of tubing, inside diameter 20mm and outside diameter approx. 30mm. Weld this small piece of tubing at the correct distance on the inside of the front wheel. The 78degrees angle is to counter-act the 12degrees Camber angle as was covered in the Chassis Drawing.
Attach the Front Stub Axles and King Pins to the Chassis using 13mm High Tension Bolts with Locknuts and washers in the appropriate places. Both Front Stub axles should now pivot and move from side to side. The "Track Rods" will tie together the Steering Arms which are welded to the King Pins. This will be outlined and covered later on in Drawing #12.

5. - Rear Axle Carrier

The Rear Axle Carrier allows the Rear Bearings to be secured to the chassis while alloing the rear axle to rotate freely. There are two plates which squeeze very tightly either side of a normal roller bearing. These roller bearings are cheaper than a purchased unit but are not the ideal method. When buying these bearings, and making the axle - you must ensure that there is a VERY TIGHT FIT between the inside of the bearing and the outside of the axle. Otherwise the axle may spin inside of the bearing - and the bearing would not serve its purpose at all! The Drawing above shows a very secure, however complicated method of attaching these bearings to the Chassis. Instead of making the rectangular enclosure, it would be possible to weld a single vertical steel plate (6mm) to the chassis, and then to use the Triangular pressure plate to squeeze the bearing, securing the outside rim of the bearing tightly while allowing the inside rim/center to rotate freely. Diameter 8mm High Tensile Steel bolts are then used to squeeze either side of the bearing as can be seen in the above drawing. Make sure to use Washers and Lock nuts so they will not loosen over time.
An easier option to the above would be to purchase "Pillar Bearing" units which simply bolt onto the chassis. These can be sourced from your local engineering suppliers.

6. - Rear Axle Complete

The Rear Axle can be fabricated using several methods, and depends on whether you have access to a Metalwork lathe and Milling machine. The Axle itself is simply a 1100mm long solid metal bar of 30mm diameter. Ideally there would be "keyways" Milled/Ground into this metal bar, which in conjunction with a metal "key" will stop the rear wheels, sprocket and brake carrier from spinning freely on the axle. The idea is that the Wheels, Sprocket Carrier and Brake Carrier all spin with the Axle. This is referred to as a "Live Axle" - i.e. the Axle itself spins (as opposed to a fixed axle). It might be possible to use an Angle-Grinder to cut/grind out these keyways. It might also be possible to weld the Hubs of the wheels and the Sprocket Carrier directly to the rear axle - however it is not recommended. Although welding the wheels to the rear axle provides a quick fix, if the wheels want to be changed, or a sprocket changed etc. all the welds will have to be ground off (which is a tedious task).
You will also notice 2 shoulder pieces (diameter 40mm, 25mm long). These are pieces of tubing etc. which are either welded (via tack welding) or grub screwed to the axle. These shoulders prevent the Axle itself from sliding/moving left and right in the middle of the Rear Axle Bearings. Note: If you purchased and are using "Pillar Bearings" - you should not need these shoulders, as the Pillar Bearing units provide an inbuilt grub screw stopping the axle moving from side to side.

7. - Rear Hubs and Wheels

This Drawing #7 shows the Details for making/buying suitable Wheel Hubs which are used to attach the wheel to the Rear Axle.
Note: Some wheels do not require a hub. A large trolley/ wheelbarrow wheel has an incorporated hub, and does not need a seperate hub. In these cases the wheel can be placed directly onto the rear axle, and bolted/welded in place. Wide racing kart wheels however do require a Hub to secure itself to the rear axle. You can choose to buy the appropriate hub for the wheel you have, or attempt to make a proper hub yourself. It would be possible to make a simpler hub. The measurements and details for the Hub in this drawing are a little complicated for the average person to make, but it shows the key parts required in a typical hub, which are: A Matching Keyway to that on the Rear Axle, A Pinch Bolt to tighten the hub onto the Rear Axle to stop it moving from left to right.

8. - Brake and Sprocket Carriers

The Brake and Sprocket Carriers are the Exact same as the Hubs used for the Rear wheels. Extra holes may have to be drilled into the Brake Disc and the Sprocket in order to accept bolts. Use 8mm High Tensile Steel bolts with washers and Lock nuts.

9. - Rear Brakes

There are a few options which can be taken when installing Brakes onto a Kart. Typically it will involve placing a "Brake Disc" onto the rear axle, and then having "Brake Callipers/Shoes" fixed to the chassis. This Drawing shows just that - the placement of the Callipers and Brake Disc on the rear axle, and the support brackets required to secure the Callipers, preventing them from rotating.
Note: Depending on the speed of your Kart - you may require brakes on the Front wheels - however this requires more work and plans. For the moment - Brakes on the rear axle should suffice.
For sourcing the Brake Disc and Callipers, it would be best to take the whole complete front unit off a small Motorbike. Leave all the hydraulic brake pipes in place. Position the Brake lever onto the chassis - close to the Callipers on the rear axle. Operate the Brake Lever (off the motorbike) from the Brake Pedal via a manual cable.

Kids Vehicles

Spudz — Tue, 12 Aug 2008 13:27:20 CDT

I want to show some for our designs for cheap, easy to build vehicles designed especially for kids. Designed for kids by kids!

Our first design is a skateboard with a 40 Cc petrol or electric engine mounted on a wooden or metal platform on the back of the skateboard.
If you are looking at buying a go kart then buy an off road go kart because most of the time the off road ones are much cheaper, and sometimes its cheaper to assemble it yourself rather than buying a complete ready made one. I have bought a normal petrol road racing go kart and replaced the wheels with off road ones and made the chassis more re-enforced. In total it cost me about 125£. The go kart I got of eBay for 100£ and the wheels I got for 15£ and I bought a small light for the front in case I want to go night racing or something like that. Amazon and eBay are very good for buying cheap go karts, parts and accessories.

The first idea is an electric skateboard. Its basically a skateboard but with an incredible 1000W electric motor whacked on the back. Its very fast and comfortable. It has a seat that you can either fold up or keep down. Its very maneuverable. It has 4 off road go kart tyres with stainless steel rims. An oak and Canadian maple wood deck and big metal trucks. It comes with an optional solar panel to place on the back for long trips, because if you are running out of battery on a sunny day then use the solar panels to charge the battery while your skating.

The second is a bicycle with a petrol moped engine (48 Cc) on the back and the pedals and gears taken off.

The third is a tiny car, 60 inches long and 45 inches wide. It has a 50 Cc moped engine in it. It has a plastic body on it and 2 bicycle lights on it.

Water and Air Vehicles

Spudz — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 10:23:06 CDT

The first air design is a helicopter designed for the military.

Contact

Spudz — Sun, 10 Aug 2008 11:39:42 CDT

If you have any questions then call us on:
07530138421

or send an e-mail to:
spud1england@hotmail.com

We are looking for a caretaker, vehicle designers (of any age) and a barman !!!!!!!!

Our Videos

Spudz — Thu, 07 Aug 2008 09:15:09 CDT

We have some videos of go karting and minimoto racing so you can get a feel for what it's like. There is also a virtual tour of our track but for more information of the smisondax track visit The Club page on the left.